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Winter is the time of year to enjoy the spoils of hunting in Tennessee.  In the Jenotopia household it is the time of year when we reconnect to nature in a different way.  The time of plants is over, and it is time to remember our part in the Great Circle through the hunt.  Gone is the temptation of convenient, shrink-wrapped, anonymous meat from great cattle-yards in the mid-West:  we are now blessed with fresh, natural, local, respectfully-taken food. 

Life is good.

I have heard some folks say they did not enjoy wild game they have eaten, and that it tasted strange, “gamey,” or was ill-prepared.  This need not be the case with game meat:  it is fresher, tastier, and healthier than mass-produced meats.  In my experience, most less-than-pleasant outcomes with game stem from improper handling or preparation of the meat.  There are a few things to remember, then, when dealing with wild game.  Here is what we do.

Proper Meat Handling

Although this is not intended to be a hunting article, it is absolutely essential that wild game be properly handled from the time it is killed until it reaches our mouths.  Anything less introduces the possibility of food poisoning.  There is no USDA inspector hanging around the hunting cabin, so we have to ensure things are done properly ourselves.

When wild game arrives in the Jenotopia kitchen, it should have already been treated the following way:

• The hunter and/or dresser should have immediately removed the innards from the animal after killing.
• The carcass should have been dressed with clean utensils.
• The meat should have been cooled quickly to 40 degrees F or below, and should have been kept cold during processing and transport.
• Meat stored more than a few days should have been frozen until ready to cook.

If these criteria have not been followed, the meat goes.  No exceptions.

Preparation of Wild Game

Once I have the wild game meat on the kitchen block ready for preparation into a succulent winter feast, there are a few minor details to tend to that differentiate game from domestic meat:

• Leaner meat.  Wild game, especially venison, is much leaner than beef.  Because of this there is a risk of the meat drying out during cooking.  Adding extra fat (pork or beef fat works well), sealing in foil or in a Dutch oven, and frequent basting are a few ways to compensate for this leanness.
• More trimming required.  With wild game I will usually not have the perfectly-cut, generic cuts of meat I get at the local butcher shop.  I will have to do a bit of work to get the cuts I need, and with venison I will also have to trim the silverskin off before I begin cooking.  I will then give the meat one final rinse in cold water and pat it dry with paper towels.  I leave a bit of extra preparation time for all this.
• Different taste qualities.   I believe wild game has a wider variety of tastes, all of which are excellent if the meat is well-prepared.  My own preference is not for very overpowering sauces or marinades, but for Old World slow cooking recipes or grilling.  Remember, wild game does taste different than commercial meat, but it should taste fresh and delicious—not “funny.”

Why Eat Wild?

Cooking end enjoying wild game is a privilege we appreciate here in Middle Tennessee.  In a world of mass-produced, prepackaged products, the simple interaction between man and the environment at the most primal level keeps us connected to the world around us.  We remember the rhythm of life and the rhythm of the seasons—and our cooking, like our lifestyle, reflects our traditions and beliefs.  For us, wild game is not the exception or an occasional treat:  it is our way of attempting to live respectfully and naturally in an artificial world.

Let's Cook:  Tuscan-Style Venison 

And now to the cooking!  After several iterations I have produced my own venison version of an old Tuscan recipe that originally featured wild boar.  I leave plenty of time for preparation, as the venison marinates at least one night in wine and spices before slow cooking for most of the day.  (I usually begin marinating on Thursday or Friday night, and begin cooking on Saturday morning.)

• The addition of cloves before marinating reflects the popularity of Middle Eastern spices in medieval Europe--it also brings depth to the flavor of this wonderful meat. 
• The small amount of tomato sauce and paste added to the mixture right before cooking ensures a savory, well-balanced sauce after several hours of cooking.  
  
• Adding a small amount of Italian pork sausage and keeping the pot covered while the dish slow cooks ensure the venison stays moist and tender.

The results have been delicious:  the meat is tender and succulent, and the sauce is savory and condensed.  When the Tuscan-Style Venison is ready to eat,  it should be a gorgeous mahogany color.   The perfume from its slow cooking fills the house, and although the recipe makes quite a bit there will not be a single leftover.  Hope you enjoy!

Tuscan-Style Venison

If you would like more information about dressing and cooking wild game, visit Penn State's College of Agricultural Sciences brochures on venison and on wild game and fish.